How We Built Our DIY Outdoor Kitchen Island
Updated: 1 day ago
We learned a lot...
When we first started building our outdoor kitchen, I pictured warm summer evenings, pretty drinks, and everyone gathered around the island eating my "famous" BBQ dinners, roasting marshmallows, maybe snuggling up to my husband whilst we watch our favorite romcom movies. I'm a homebody bordering on a hermit, so my home environment is absolutely crucial to my happiness, thus why we started renovating in the first place.
What I did not picture was myself on the ground surrounded by concrete dust, in tears, questioning every decision that had led me to this exact moment.
But here we are. Currently, I'm crying happy tears because ya'll loved my outdoor kitchen island on Insta and that makes me so happy, plus the rest of outdoor kitchen is almost finished and it has been the bane of my existence.
MY CAUTIONARY TALE
This outdoor kitchen has been a three-year labor of love, some confidence building, lots of doubt, trial and error, self-discovery, and repeated trips to Lowe’s. We remodeled our outdoor patio space while running our two full-time businesses, premierpowerwashingvt.com and abraujewelry.com raising kids, creating content for Insta 👉https://www.Instagram.com/abraujewelry. We all know that social media has somehow taken over and has become artists’ new full-time jobs (sadly).
And somehow, through all of the trials and tribulations and literal excruciating back pain, this outdoor kitchen has become one of my favorite things we've ever built, and the most rewarding! Funny how that works, right? Truly the metaphor for life; we cannot experience the highs without the lows.
Keep in mind, before I met Dan 10 years ago, I had just started learning how to do things on my own. I was a girly-girl through and through and thought that I needed a man to do any hard labor for me. But, ever since my husband handed me my first power tool in 2020 while the world shut down, I've been hooked on the feeling that building and DIY gives me and something that I've never felt before in my rollercoaster life—a feeling of complete control. DIY is healing and it's how I've coped with loss, trauma, heartbreak, and life. It's my therapy.
Was It Worth Three Summers?
Would I do it again?
Yes.
Did it cost us three summers?
Also yes! I / we sacrificed A LOT; time with our kids especially, so let that be my disclaimer to you. Can you hire a professional to do this for you? Also yes. I suggest it.
The good news for YOU? It shouldn’t cost you three summers because we already did all of the measuring, experimenting, problem-solving, product researching, material replacing, and occasional staring-into-the-distance hoping that the matrix would glitch for you, which is why commissionable links are included.
Anytime you shop from one of my links, I make a small commission at zero cost to you. It's the only way that I can afford to take the time to make these posts and share my knowledge. I LOVE and LIVE for helping others, so this is the only way that I can do that. Thank you SO much in advance for shopping through these links and for following me on Instagram 🙏🏻
Plus, I put everything we learned into a FREE downloadable guide here. If you're hiring out, hand (or send) this to your contractor. It includes our exact measurements, illustrated block layout, cabinet-opening plan, materials, product links, indoor-versus-outdoor recommendations, and step-by-step instructions.
If our three summers of trial and error can save you time, money, and at least one minor concrete-related breakdown, I consider that a win 🏆
And, if you're attempting this as a DIY, remember this: the best things aren’t always bought finished. Sometimes they’re built one block, one mistake, and one “we can fix this” at a time. Also, feel free to DM me at any time. I love hearing from you and will try to walk you through anything danielle@abrau.org
Hopefully, you get to skip a few of the mistakes we made though!
The Finished Island
Our island was designed to function as both a working kitchen island and a large outdoor dining table.
Here are the finished measurements:
Island base: 126½ inches long × 45 inches deep × 34 inches high
Countertop: 130½ inches long × 47¼ inches deep
Finished counter height: 37 inches
Countertop edge thickness: 2½ inches
Side overhang: 2½ inches
Seating overhang: 17 inches
Clearance between the island and back counters: 33½ inches
Pendant height: 34 inches from the countertop to the bottom of each pendant
We made ours very large because apparently a normal-sized island was not dramatic enough for us and we have a large family and it seats our family of 5.
Before copying our measurements, however, make sure you plan around your own space, stools, appliances, and walking clearances. Our dimensions worked for our kitchen, but every project will be a little different.
If you want to work with me to help you with a design based on your space, feel free to DM me for a quote.
You can shop more of our outdoor kitchen products through my Wayfair Outdoor Kitchen Collection or browse my full Wayfair storefront for all of the products used in my home.
Start With a Very Heavy Base
We built the island base using concrete masonry blocks. The first thing we did was lay out the entire first course without adhesive. This is called a dry fit, which is construction language for “make sure this actually works before permanently attaching anything.”
Dry-fitting is especially important if you’re adding cabinets, drawers, appliances, plumbing, or electrical components.
We laid out the first row completely, marked the locations of our stainless steel storage, and then removed the blocks where the openings needed to be.
Our illustrated layout used approximately:
24 full cored blocks
Four half cored blocks
Two solid spacer blocks
Those quantities are specific to our approximate layout. Block dimensions, mortar joints, cabinet sizes, cuts, and site conditions can all change what you need.
In other words, please don’t order exactly 24 blocks and send me an invoice if your island needs 26 😂
Danielle Nicole Enright lifting heavy concrete blocks for her outdoor kitchen a base of concrete blocks for an outdoor kitchen island stacked cinder blocks for an outdoor kitchen island
Level Every Single Block
If you take only one piece of advice from this post, let it be this:
Do not rush the first course.
We checked every block from side to side and front to back, then checked it against the blocks beside it.
When part of our slab was uneven, we mixed mortar, applied it beneath the block, and gently tapped the block into position with a rubber mallet.
The first course determines what happens to every row above it. If the base isn’t level, the countertop won’t be level—and nobody wants their summer cocktail slowly migrating toward the edge.
Once the first row was level and secure, we stacked the remaining rows using an exterior-rated construction adhesive compatible with masonry. We continued checking for level and plumb throughout the build.
Plan Your Storage Before Building Around It
We incorporated two stainless steel storage units:
Drawer-and-door cabinet: approximately 38.3 inches wide × 22.7 inches high × 20.7 inches deep
Trash drawer: approximately 13.4 inches wide × 26 inches high × 19.6 inches deep
Both openings begin above one course of block.
The important word here is approximately.
Purchase your actual cabinets first and use their real dimensions, installation instructions, ventilation requirements, and cutout specifications.
Dry-fit everything before adding the surrounding supports and blocks.
A product’s overall dimensions are not always the same as its required opening dimensions.
Ask me how I know.
Actually, don’t. We’re trying to keep this fun.
Building the Countertop Substrate
Next, we pieced together the plywood substrate for the countertop, leaving a 2½-inch overhang on the sides and a 17-inch seating overhang.
A large cantilevered overhang may require brackets or engineered reinforcement. Plywood and optimism are not a structural support system, so make sure your design can safely support the span and expected weight.
We secured the plywood to the masonry base with concrete screws. We then installed backer board over the plywood and added strips around the perimeter to create the thick countertop edge.
Our finished edge is 2½ inches thick, giving it the substantial appearance of a poured-concrete slab.
We covered the seams with alkali-resistant mesh tape and a compatible mortar or thinset to reinforce the transitions and help prevent cracks from transferring through the finish.
Here is the countertop product link I saved for this project.
The Indoor-Versus-Outdoor Product Conversation
This is the part where I tell you what we used—and what I would research differently before recreating it.
We used white SureCrete MicroTek with Limestone pigment to create the countertop finish.
We also used ElastoShield as part of our countertop project. This product is by far SUPERIOR to other microcements that I've tried. Do not, I repeat, do NOT attempt to use the Zcounterform Liquicrete. I used this first and it was an absolute nightmare to work with. It was hard to spread and would scratch so easily.
I digress. The Surecrete finish gave us the soft, organic movement I wanted and looks much more like natural stone than a perfectly uniform manufactured surface.
However, MicroTek is currently described by the manufacturer as an interior overlay.
If you’re recreating this countertop outdoors—especially somewhere like Vermont with moisture and freeze-thaw cycles—choose a complete countertop system specifically approved for exterior exposure.
MY DEFENSE: Hear me out. The reason why we chose microcement for the island is because I wasn't sure if I wanted to pour concrete for an island. I was going back and forth with wanting a couch where the island sits and didn't want to deconstruct a massive, heavy island if I changed my mind. Doing this with microcement will be an easier fix for us. Did we likely waste money because now I love and am 100% on board with the island? Maybe. But, my errors will only help you.
I guess I'll let you know how our microcement holds up this Vermont winter, but I'm guessing that we'll be changing it up to something more permanent next year.
Also, stay tuned because even though we finished our island in microcement, we actually poured our back countertops, so those should last forever and I'll be doing a separate tutorial on those very soon.
For the microcement island, please only use this concept on your indoor islands if you want it to last forever and steal my idea for the lower wood wrap.
My free guide includes more detailed indoor-versus-outdoor notes to help you research the right system for your location.
Applying the Concrete Finish
We worked in several very thin layers rather than trying to create the entire finish in one heavy application.
For each layer, we:
Protected the surrounding floor with plastic.
Mixed a small batch according to the product directions.
Spread it quickly with a squeegee or trowel.
Maintained a wet edge.
Allowed the layer to set.
Lightly refined the ridges and high spots.
Repeated the process.
Hot weather shortens your working time, so smaller batches are easier to control.
Measure every partial batch carefully and maintain the same product-to-water and pigment ratios. Guessing with color pigment is an excellent way to create seven subtly different shades of beige. So don't do that.
The vertical edges were the hardest part for me.
I finally discovered that using two trowels worked best: one underneath the edge to catch and support the material, and another to press the concrete over the side and pull it upward in very thin layers.
It was not graceful, but it worked. The squeegee worked the best for spreading and evening everything out.
Sanding Without Destroying Everything
Between layers, I lightly sanded the surface to knock down high spots and trowel marks.
I used these sanding discs and grits.
An orbital sander can remove material surprisingly quickly, so start conservatively and test a small area first. Wet sanding by hand—or using a tool specifically rated for wet sanding—offers more control.
Concrete dust can contain respirable crystalline silica. Use proper respiratory protection, HEPA dust extraction, and wet methods where appropriate. Never use an ordinary electric sander with water.
The goal isn’t to remove every bit of movement. Small tonal changes and subtle imperfections are what help the finished surface resemble natural stone.
Perfectly imperfect is charming.
Accidentally sanding through an entire layer is character building.
Sealing the Countertop
Once the final layer had cured and the surface was completely clean, dry, and properly prepared, we applied this exterior clear sealer. I chose the matte finish because I really wanted that modern organic stone finish. I felt like the shiny wet-look has a place inside but not outside. I want our outdoor kitchen to be an extension of nature with organic looking materials like wood, concrete, greenery, etc.
Always confirm that your sealer is compatible with the complete countertop system and approved for its intended environment. Follow the manufacturer’s mixing ratios, application temperatures, recoat times, and full cure period exactly.
“Dry to the touch” does not necessarily mean fully cured or ready for food contact.
We applied thin, even coats and protected the surface while it cured. Cutting boards and trivets will also help preserve the finish after the countertop has fully cured.
Wrapping the Island With Wood
an outdoor kitchen island with wood wrap Danielle Nicole Enright applying pine wood to an outdoor kitchen island finished outdoor kitchen island
The warm vertical wood detail completely changed the look of the island.
It also happened after our first material choice failed within approximately 48 hours.
We originally installed a decorative pole wrap that appeared to be white oak wood. What I failed to notice was that it was essentially a very thin wood veneer over a material that had absolutely no desire to live outdoors. Even beneath a roof, outdoor humidity said, “That’s cute,” and the wrap began warping and falling apart.
So we removed it—along with the money we had just spent—and started again. Good times!
For the replacement, we used unfinished solid pine tongue-and-groove panels.
Pine is a cost-effective option, but it isn’t naturally weatherproof and requires careful preparation and ongoing maintenance when used outdoors.
Here's what I would've installed had we not already gone over budget:
Before installation, I applied:
Exterior paint tinted Bar Harbor Beige to disguise the knots and create a protective base
Early American stain to bring the wood tone back.
At least two coats of an exterior clear sealer
I applied the stain with this inexpensive dry chip brush and worked in long strokes.
The key was coating every face, edge, end, and fresh cut before installation—not just the parts we would see.
We cut the panels using a table saw and this miter/chop saw. Then we attached the panels to the masonry with Liquid Nails construction adhesive.
Before using any adhesive outdoors, verify that the exact formula is rated for exterior exposure and compatible with both masonry and your finished wood. We started at the corners and used clamps, braces, and weighted blocks to hold everything in place while the adhesive cured.
If I were choosing the most durable, lower-maintenance finish for an uncovered island or a severe freeze-thaw climate, I would strongly consider exterior-rated wood-look porcelain tile, composite cladding, masonry veneer, or wood specifically rated for exterior exposure.
But visually?
The pine we used gave me exactly the warm, organic multilinear look I wanted and would work beautifully inside too. I did a lot of research on using pine outdoors and as long as you pretreat everything with exterior paint and stain, it does hold up. Will I have to reseal in 3 years, possibly, but I'll update you with all of that "research".
Download the Free Outdoor Kitchen Island Guide
I created a free downloadable guide containing:
Our exact island and countertop measurements
Illustrated block layout
Approximate block quantities
Cabinet-opening plan
Indoor-versus-outdoor product guidance
Countertop application instructions
Sanding and sealing notes
Materials and tools
Shoppable product links
Important safety and planning information
Save the guide before starting your project, and please read the structural, safety, manufacturer, and exterior-product notes included inside.
Shop Our Outdoor Kitchen
Countertop Materials
Island-Wrap Materials and Tools
Outdoor Kitchen and Décor
If you build your own version, please tag me @abraujewelry so I can see it—and so we can compare how many times each of us said, “This should only take one weekend.” IYKYK 😂
Affiliate disclosure: This post contains commissionable affiliate links. If you purchase through one of my links, I may earn a commission at no additional cost to you. I only share products we used, considered, or believe may be helpful. Always confirm that a product is appropriate for your specific indoor or outdoor application before purchasing.
Project disclaimer: This post documents our personal DIY experience and is not a substitute for professional engineering, construction, electrical, plumbing, gas, or code advice. A masonry island and concrete countertop are extremely heavy. Confirm that your foundation can support the completed structure, follow local building requirements, and use licensed professionals where required.
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